Jarvis Pass - Part 18 - Tete Jaune Cache to Ft. George

Here's the Last Part of Hanington's letters to his brother.  The entire Journal will be uploaded to the Valley Museum Website in the original typeset text with maps.

Tete Jaune Cache,  Rocky Mountains, May 4th, 1876.

My Dear Edward, —

I left Fort Garry in June last, after having spent three weeks very pleasantly there. Johnny thought Winnipeg a fine place; it was his first appearance in a town. He had some money when he arrived, and the first time he appeared after, he was dressed in black broadcloth, swell hat and patent leather boots. His board was paid all the time till a chance should occur of sending him homo to British Columbia. The last time I saw him he was sitting by the side of a dry goods store with one arm around the neck of a very good-looking squaw, who evidently thought him no end of a swell. Late last fall he came over here, having been forwarded by express. He had learned to talk English, and when I said, " Iketa mika tumtum kopa okook cula inate la monte? " *
He replied, "Damn hard. ”  
He had a good summer of it; lived with the object of his affections (though she did not speak his language nor he hers), and was loud in the praises of Winnipeg. I inquired about the health of his wife, and he informed me that she cried a good deal when he came away; also that should nothing occur to prevent he would be a father shortly. So I gave him some clothes, &c., and he started off to his home in the lower Fraser. Alec was hired as a mail carrier between Garry and Edmonton till the autumn, when he was sent to Henry House, 64 miles from here, to look after the supplies there in depot. He came over to see me this winter, and was here on the anniversary of the day on which we reached Lake St. Ann’s. We did our best to celebrate it in rum and water, a thing we weren’t able to do last year. I had him in our mess, and enjoyed his visit very much, living over past scenes more pleasantly than was possible at the time they were enacted. He went back to his post, and will go to Fort Garry early in the spring. The chief (Jarvis) went to St. Paul, and was sent for from Ottawa, where he was wanted to take a party to British Columbia. Being as fond of this country as I am, and being able to afford himself a  rest, he refused and left the C. P. R. for a season. After making a visit to P. E. Island and other parts of the Dominion, he returned to Fort Garry and went into the lumber business, where he is now making a good deal of money. I hear from him often. He said once that the mention of Smoky River made him shudder, and I dare say it would. I came out here last summer, and we commenced locating the line from the summit of Yellow Head Pass down the Fraser River to meet another party commencing at Fort George. In November we went into quarters here, and have spent a most miserable winter, the last I will ever spend in this way. We will be at work long before you get this, pushing steadily towards Fort George and civilisation after. The sketch I send of our trip is, I think, full of errors, though not any serious ones. I have written it very hurriedly at different times, with all the din and noise of my friends in arms sounding in my ears.

I know you will make every allowance for my mistakes, which I cannot correct as I've no time to read the whole again.

I know it is written in a rambling desultory sort of fashion, but you’ll believe me when I say that I did the best I can under the circumstances. And now I'll say good-bye. I remain,

Your loving brother,

CHAS. F. HANINGTON.

* "What do you think of the trip across the mountains? "



Thermometrical Readings; Minimum Temperature, from 1st January to 6th, April, 1875.
-
January. February. March. April.
Date. Temperature Date. Temperature. Date. Temperature. Date. Temperature
               o o o o
1 -32 1 -23 1          - 6 1 23
2 -26 2 -29 2 12 2 24
3 -40 3 -10 3 -11 3 4
4 -10 4        7 4          - 8 4 - 4
5              -33 5 - 8 5 -15 5 6
6             -38 6 2                 6 - 5 6 8
7 -36 7        4 7 22
8             -47 8        8 8 16
9             -25 9       -24              9 5
10           -45 10 -22 10 26
11           -31         11 8 11 27
12          -40 12 12 12 15
13          -50 13         2              13 -2
14 -53 14 3 14 -32
15 -48 15 25 15 -30
16 -36          16 15 16 -23
17          -41          17       27 17 -20
18 -45 18 33 18          - 8
19 -45 19 28 19 -12
20          -31 20 25 20 9
21           3 21      29 21 6
22           7 22 25 22  - 3
23        -10 23 11 23 -12
24           8 24 - 2 24 - 9
25         14 25      -15 25 4
26 -2 26 - 2 26  - 6
27  -23 27      -10 27 5
28        -29 28 8 28 - 4
29        -10 29 15
30         14 30         5
31 - 2 31         9

Jarvis Pass - Part 17 - 2,188,900 Paces

This letter doesn't have a date or whom to; I imagine it's a summary report to "Whom it may Concern;" or to Jarvis in 1876.


The country between Quesnelle and Lake St. Ann’s is heavily wooded for the most part. West of the mountains it is much broken and rugged. The streams there are rapid and their banks rocky.

After crossing the mountains things appear in a more settled form, and on a smaller scale, the hills particularly. On the Smoky River there is some fine sandstone, about all we saw on the trip. We had heard of a great canon on the Athabasca but when we reached it we found the rocky sides to be about 20 feet high and fiat on the top. We were disappointed. On the Pembina River there are some coal beds which have been burning for many years. We could smell the smoke about a mile off, and it put us in mind of a city. At one place where the smoke comes out of the side of a perpendicular rock it is particularly striking. The surface of the ground is very hot in many places, hot enough to boil the kettle; and by the way I might mention here that the proper name for "Smoky River" is “Smoking” River, so given from some burning coal beds about 50 miles below where we left it.

The wood about St. Ann’s is small and mostly cotton wood. From that to east it exists only in patches and is very small. East of Edmonton a man knowing the country can generally find enough wood to make a fire, but there are places where wood has to be carried in the carts, such as the Salt Plain, Pheasant Plain, and some others. I am speaking of the trail which we followed from Edmonton. There is a trail south of the Saskatchewan. where the kettle most of the time has to be boiled by the use of buffalo chips. One reason why we did not take it was the season not being far enough advanced and fires being necessary there.

The map, 25 miles to an inch, is a tracing I compiled from my poor data. It will do to give you an idea of the locality we are now in as well as that followed last winter ('75). It is not correct as regards distance. The trail I have dotted in red, as well as the other part of our journey. The line of the C. P. R. I laid down as near as I could from information gathered in letters, &c. " The plan of our Smoky River exploration " is as correct as can be, having been plotted from the original notes. The camps are marked in red and the elevations in blue.

You will see that I haven’t wasted much time on them, but I trust they are plain and will serve their purpose.

I send the " Smoky River plan " in toto, but a very small strip of the other one. 'Cause, not very much time to spare just now.

Hoping you'll excuse all the deficiencies which can’t be helped,

I remain,

Yours sincerely,

C. F. HANINGTON.


DISTANCE TRAVELLED ON SMOKY RIVER EXPLORATION.
                                                                                        Miles.

From Quesnelle Mouth to Fort George.............................. 125

"  Fort George to mouth of North Fork.......................... 64

"  North Fork to Hanington's Cache............................... 18

"  Hanington’s Cache to Salmon Cache (Bear River),
         going by Portage and returning via Bear and
         Fraser Rivers............................................................. 73 1/2

" Hanington's Cache to the Forks.................................. 18

" The Forks to head of North Branch............................ 63

" Return to the Forks.................................................... 63

" Forks to turn into Pass............................................... 48 1/2

"      Turn into Pass to Summit of Mountains........................ 40 3/4

"      Summit to Cache on Smoky River............................... 86

"      Cache on Smoky River to Next River........................... 9 1/4

" Next river to Fiddle River Depot...............................110

" Fiddle River Depot to Lake St. Ann's....................... 217

" Lake St. Ann’s to Edmonton...................................... 60

Miles............................................................................... 996

                                                                                       Miles.

Distances measured by Pacing between Quesnelle Mouth and
Edmonton on Exploration................................................ 826

Number of paces counted, taking inside figures .............2,188,900

DISTANCES FROM EDMONTON EAST.

                                                                                           Miles.

From Edmonton to Fort Victoria............................................80

"  Victoria to Fort Pitt.................................................... 113

"  Pitt to Fort Carlton..................................................... 167

"        Carlton to Fort Ellice.................................................. 307

"   Ellice to Fort Garry.................................................... 220

Total................................................................................... 887


Total distance travelled.....................................................1, 883
No. of camps between Quesnelle Mouth and Fort Garry....... 106


RATION LIST, CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY SURVEY, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

For one man, per day and per month:-

                                                              Per day.         Per month.

Bacon and hams.................................... 1 1/2 lb.   45 lbs.

Flour.................................................... 1 1/4 "           37 1/2 "

Beans and  pease................................. 12 1/2 ozs.   25 "

Oatmeal.................................................1 1/2 "   2 "

Dried apples and plums.......................... 4 "   5 "

Tea...................................................... 1 1/4  "   2 "

Coffee.................................................. 1 1/2 "           3 "

Sugar................................................. 2 1/2  "        4 1/2  "

Rice.................................................... 2 "        4 "

Molasses......................... ............................................1 gall.

Yeast powder........................................ 3 tins to 50 lbs. of flour.

Salt....................................................................................1/2  "

Mustard..............................................................................1/8  "

Pepper................................................................................1/3  "

Pickles................................................Plenty.

Soap................................................... do       4     "

Candles.............................................. do in officers’ mess.

Vinegar.............................................. do

Lime juice........................................... do

Matches.............................................. do

Note.- When fresh beef is used instead of bacon, 60 lbs. must be allowed per month.

These rations are used regularly in B. C. The sugar particularly is very often short.

C. F.  HANINGTON.

Jarvis Pass - Part 16 - Feeling Like A Bird

Fort Garry, Manitoba,

22nd May, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We were two days from St. Ann’s to Edmonton; spent five days there; had a good deal of vomiting and diarrhoea, which lasted nearly to Fort Pitt. We were four days to Victoria, and rested there two days. Nine days more to Pitt where we stayed one day. Nine days from Pitt to Carlton where we rested five days. We left Carlton on the 8th May, and were at Ellice on the 15th; stayed there only half a day and reached Portage la Prairie on the morning of the 20th. Then Jarvis and I took the stage and got here yesterday. We left the Stewart Lake Indians at Edmonton to return in the spring, Johnny, Alec, and a guide (Norris) a trader, came through with us. I cannot here give you a description of our day’s journey, of securing rides on horseback, riding on carts, camp, and all the rest, but it was jolly, fine Weather and plenty of grub. I now weigh 163 pounds, more than I ever weighed, and I feel like a bird, but hungry yet. We left Edmonton with horse sleds (toboggan), at Victoria we packed our horses and left sleds. At Pitt we left pack saddles, got some fresh horses and carts and came to Carlton. At Carlton more fresh horses, at Ellice more fresh horses and a waggon which we engaged to the Portage. From St. Ann’s to Fort Garry we were just fifty-one days, thirty-seven of which were spent in travelling, and the others in loafing.

Some time I may give you an account of the trip from Edmonton (nearly 900 miles) of the game on the prairie and the prairies themselves. But now I’ll conclude by thanking the officers of the Hudson Bay Company for their generosity and good nature. Every one of them did his best to make us comfortable, took us to his own house, though we were perfect strangers to all of them west of Ellice. There I found two old friends of mine, who had partaken of our hospitality when we kept house it Fort Garry, two years ago.

This has been a hard trip from first to last. One that I will never forget, and never repeat, I hope. I am now in the office here, waiting for orders to go somewhere to work, and making  the plan, a tracing of which I send you.

My eye has just caught this sentence in Jarvis’ report, which I have been reading (his report to the Chief Engineer, Mr. Fleming ): " I cannot refrain from mentioning In terms of the highest praise, my assistant, Mr. Hanington, to whose pluck and endurance the success of the exploration is so largely due. ”

I put this in because I am proud of it, and I will add that that one sentence from Jarvis is pay enough for all I did through the winter. Jarvis has gone to St. Paul to see a friend, so I am alone here, except that I have any amount of friends who are kind as ever.

And now good bye.

Your loving brother,

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 15 - Hard Work and Deuced Small Grub

CAMP   No.  51.
McLEOD'S  RIVER, 24th  March, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

We left the Depot very early, in a gale of wind which blow down the lake, our dogs, Cabree of my train, Captain of Alec’s and Musqua from Stewart’s Lake didn't offer to follow us as they preferred grub to starvation I suppose; we went down the Lake in a hurry, rather too fast for our own comfort sometimes, and then followed the Athabasca; having done 14 miles when we camped, had a little dried meat and a little bread for supper, turned in tired enough. Next day we followed the river 14 miles and then left it to take trail across to McLeod River camp 1 mile on trail.  Found so walking warm that day and the rations very small for such hard work. On the 20th the walking was very bad and we only did 8 1/2 miles passing a lake in P. M.  On Sunday the 2lst we did 4 miles to the McLeod and 8 down it on a trail made by one of the C. P. R. parties two years before. Very heavy travelling but the trail is better than the river which was overflowed.

22nd. Travelled 15 miles, 5 to portage across bend of river and 10 to camp. Nothing eventful my diary says, sick of this work, “ hard work and deuced small grub.” On the 23rd we did 16 1/2 miles, 1 to end of portage and 15 more down the river by trail, met Adam, a man from Edmonton, en route to Jasper House. He gave us some tea but his grub was about gone as he had been detained by the heavy travelling.

We had a cup of strong tea immediately, and it made us drunk, think of it, drunk on tea. He gave us some sugar which we ate up at once, like Indians exactly, and then we pushed on. On the 24th we made good time on Adam’s track and did 22 1/4 miles, though a little fresh snow fell in the evening, that is to-night. We start early and stop to lest every hour being not so strong as we once were. At night we stop, Jarvis and I clear up a place for camp, Alec and Johnny get brush and the others cut wood, as soon as camp is made Johnny cooks supper (so called) but long before that I am asleep. I am waked to cut my share, which is measured (by) the chief carefully and is hardly perceptible sometimes. Then I light my pipe and am asleep before I get a dozen pulls, so you will believe me when I say that I am about used up. Tobacco is the main stay; I chew it all day and smoke in the evening and it is a great improvement on nothing. Our tea now is everything for us, though that first very strong cup made a hole in the supply. However, we boil it over and over very carefully, Jarvis carrying the sack and putting in a fresh grain every time. But we know where we are perfectly and we would have no trouble in getting through were we not so much raised up when we left the Depot.

Camp No. 54, 27th March, 1875.

My Dear Brother, —

On the 25th we did 25 miles on the river, our grub getting very short, and the tea nearly gone. I had a sort of fainting fit that day so Jarvis went on a little farther made camp, leaving Alec to see me through; all right in evening, plenty of tobacco. On the 26th we followed the river 4 miles and then struck off easterly doing 9 more; had two hares for supper and the last of the bread. The men eat the insides without cleaning them, after they had taken their share of the meat.

Today it has been very warm and hard snow shoeing, we did 11 miles and struck a creek running east. Killed four hares to-day and had a first rate supper; though it night have been better.

I would give anything to-night for a good square meal of bacon, beans and bread, to say nothing of such a one as I often dream of. Still it is well I have something. Good night.

Yours hungrily,

C. F. H.


Camp 57, Lake St. Ann’s,

31st March, 1875.

My Dear Brother, —

On the 28th we did 18 miles and got nothing. My diary says, very hungry and it says truth. We crossed Dirt Lake or Chip Lake, and camped on the creek, snowing all night. On the 29th we did 23 miles, 15 1/2 to Pembina River, down it to Portage and 4 to camp beside a lake. We lived on tobacco and water, and though very weak made very good time with frequent rests. On the 30th, that is yesterday, it was warm and hard walking. Alec lay down several times, but toward evening we met an Indian who acted as guide, so we strained every nerve, C. F. H. in front, Jarvis next, then Alec and lastly the Indians; and we got to this Post at 7 P. M. in spite of all the hunger, weakness and misery. I could have gone a good deal farther that day, with that Indian in front, but when he stopped of course I was played out at once.

Mr. McGillvray, God bless him, set out a supper of white fish, potato as, milk, bread, sugar and tea and asked us to go at it. There wasn't a word said for about half an hour, and then we weren't able to speak much. For myself I staggered to a lounge where I suffered from the grub as much as I had from the want of it. This morning we were up at 5 and no one being awake I stole some bread. At 7 we had breakfast, a repetition of last night. After breakfast Alec and I took McGillvray's horse and cutter and went to the village, where is a R. C. Mission, to buy eggs, butter, at one of the half breed’s houses (a little mixed this) they asked as to eat and set out grilled buffalo bones, potatoes, tea, &c., and we had a capital feed, at another they gave us bread and milk which we did justice to. Then with a lot of eggs and cream (no butter)  we returned to the home and spent the time till noon eating cream and sugar with our bread. At noon another fill, ate all the afternoon And evening and are now as hungry as ever though suffering from the effects of gluttony. This is the end of our great exploration so far as hunger and great danger are concerned. When I think of it, I wonder how we ever got through, for without any guide and knowledge of the country we could hardly expect it. To use Jarvis’ words, “ It is altogether too large a country for 6 men. ”  My weight hero is 125 1/4 lbs. but I'll make up for it in a short time; I have necessarily written this sketch of the trip more in reference to myself than my chief. So here I want to say that the credit of the success of the exploration is due to E. W. Jarvis, whose judgment, energy and pluck brought us through. I only seconded him and did my best. But a divine Providence watched over us all through and we owe him our most heartfelt thanks.

Tomorrow we start for Edmonton, in two sleds with horses, and any amount of grub on board.

I'll write you from Fort Garry if not before.

I remain,

Your loving brother,

CHAS.

Jarvis Pass - Part 14- Staring Death in the Face Over a Bowl of Dog Soup

Camp No. 43, 15 March, 1875.         Where?

My Dear Edward, —

On the 12th we had snow all day, and very bad snow-shoeing. River 100 ft. wide and running north like the others, we commenced to think that times were hard when we began to eat dog to keep our strength up. Dog too, which had been starved and worked nearly to death. I don’t believe dog soup is good, but it goes very well. On the 13th we left the river and struck out on the old course about S. E. The Indians from Stewart’s Lake went on with their wail about never seeing their friends again. They gave up all hope, and I scarcely wonder at it; still they needn't howl so about such a small thing. Others have friends and just as strong feelings for them, and they may think a good deal, but they don’t cry. Yesterday the 14th it snowed all day and we weren't able to see anything. In the afternoon after crossing a river, we came upon a pile of horse dung. It was the prettiest I ever saw and I’d like a picture of that very pile; we examined it and cheered lustily thinking that we must be near somewhere. Buster, my favourite dog, died yesterday. To-day the snow stopped and we saw about 20 miles away a high rock which looked like a photograph we once saw of Roche a Miette at Jasper House. So we turned toward it at once. To-night we are in camp on a ridge or summit. Before us is a valley, a small insignificant one, which in my opinion contains another creek. Beyond it are some hills and further in the distance a ridge of mountains. So the thing has come down to this: —If the Athabasca be not in that valley it is beyond those mountains. In this case as Jarvis says to me, we neither have enough grub or enough strength to carry us across. So our end will be near here.

You must imagine our camp then to-night. Opposite sit the Indians, Johnny as usual silent and impassive, the other two with their heads in their hands sobbing out their grief as usual too. On my right is my worthy chief Jarvis, very thin, very white, and very much subdued. He is thinking of a good many things I suppose like the rest of us. On my left is Alec chewing tobacco and looking about used up. He had seen “ Roche a Miette” once from the east side, but isn't sure whether this is it or not, so he is blue. In the centre I sit, my looks I can't describe and my feeling scarcely. I don't believe the Athabasca is in that valley. I do believe that we have not many more days to live. I have been thinking of  “the dearest spot on earth to me,” of our Mother and Father, of all my brothers and sisters and friends. Of the happy days at home, of all the good deeds I have left undone and all the bad ones committed. I wonder if ever our bones will be discovered, when and by whom, if our friends will mourn long for us, or do as is often done, forget us as soon as possible. In short I have been looking death in the face, and had come to the conclusion that C. F. H. has been a hard case, and would like to live a while longer to make up for it.

But I am glad since we started that we didn't go back, though this has been a very tough trip and this evening is the toughest part of it.

But I must say good-night.

C. F. H.

                                   This Goya etching plays on the hope that, after death, we shall finally learn the truth. 

Camp No. 44, Fiddle River Depot, March 17th, 1875.

My Dear Edward, —

The day after that terrible evening of doubt and uncertainty, we went only 6 miles when we struck Lac Brule. You can imagine our feelings without my trying to describe them. Then 8 miles up the lake to the Depot where we found a family of Indians who gave us a lot of boiled rabbits when they found we were hungry. We went for that rabbit and then interviewed the natives. There is no one at Jasper House. This is a disappointment as we hoped to get dog trains and men there to take us east. But the Indians say they can give us some dried deer meat and a piece of mountain sheep. We are all looking very much pulled down; all our dogs are gone but three, and they are all bones and skin. Our one sled is here, and here it will remain. Our distance from Smoky River is 119 miles from summit, 205 from Fort George, we have travelled about 600 miles. The Indians say the track made on Smoky River was by one of their number who was hunting there early in the winter. That the river we followed from summit was Smoky River and also the 2nd one another branch of the same.

We are getting well used here. Rabbit straight three times a day. To-night we have our supplies in. Some dried meat and mutton and we start to-morrow. By the map Lake St. Ann’s is about 200 miles from here by the way we go. The men want to stay here and go back to Stewart’s Lake in the Spring. Upon my word I’d like to stay, too; I dread this part of the trip more than anything, although now we have the satisfaction of  “ knowing where we are.’’ Alec has been over this part of the trip, having come from Red River a couple of years ago. “ Roche Miette’’ is here all right and I won’t mistake it again, should I over have the honour of seeing it.

"Roche Miette Winter" by Barb Brooks - 1941-2009

The great peculiarity about it is its west side.- It is as perpendicular as the side of a house and as difficult to climb. A man by the name of “ Miette ” got up the east side and on to it, and it has borne his name since. Rightly enough too.

Well now I’ll conclude, very thankful I am that we are thus far on our journey and have been kept through such trial and danger.

Yours,

CHAS. F. HANINGTON.

Jarvis Pass - Part 13 - Looming Starvation in Paradise

54 Degrees 23' N. near Camp 33, 72 miles North of McBride

86 Miles from Summit, Camp 33, Smoky River, March 5th, 1875.

Dear Edward, —

The 2nd was very unpleasant, a heavy snow storm, river overflowed and deep snow, river turning more to the north and dogs getting awfully used up.

Our camp on the 3rd was at mouth of small stream from south and we had not a very comfortable evening. Another dog died that day, died of starvation, and worse still the river turned more to the north, and that as I said before means Smoky River.

Yesterday we camped 1 mile above a small fork from south, and after plotting up our work concluded that this river is Smoky River beyond a doubt. We saw an old track of a snow-shoe, but the maker may be hundreds of miles away by this time.

I got very bad with mal de raquette yesterday and cannot recommend it as a travelling companion to any one who has to travel every day and all day.

To day we have been in camp all day making packs and a cache in which we will leave our heavy stuff. By observation at noon we find we are in latitude 54 degrees 23' N. We will strike across country from here steering by the compass with our dogs following us. Our packs won’t be heavy, (very); mine is about 33 lbs., but with mal de raquette it will be heavier a good deal. We are going to take one sled, but it will be light, the others remain here “ to be called for ” I hope, but not by us. We will leave no grub of course, but our sextant, stationery, books, &c &c., with extra clothing remain here; the last clause doesn't trouble me as I put on my trowsors, drawers and shirts at Quesnelle and won’t take them off till we reach Edmonton.

By the way, I forgot to mention that at Camp 15, and also at the Summit, we washed our faces and hands. It’s a fact! The first time at Camp 15, and then again at the “ Summit. ” I don’t know the reason for the first wash, unless it was disgust at having to turn back. The last was a wish to leave all the British Columbia dust behind us. To proceed. I may mention that the men from Stewart’s Lake are getting longer faces every day, and they evidently don’t think much of this trip, either past or future. Alec is all right and Johnny as good-natured as ever. His constant sentence is, “ Cultus kopajnika. Cultus kopa mika ”—“ What’s bad for me is bad for you ”

And now I’ll stop for to-night.

Yours,

C. F. H.

Camp No. 34, 6th March, 1875.

To-day we start'd early with our packs on our backs, on small rations. Climbed all day, and were glad enough to stop to night, having done seven miles. We are on a high piece of ground to-night, and before us lies a large valley, so we will have down-hill work to-morrow. My pack to-night weighed 300 lbs. at least, and my legs are as sore as Jarvis’.

Yours,

C. F. H.

Camp No. 39, March 11th, 1875.

Don’t exactly know where.

My Dear Edward, —

On the 7th we had it down hill till we reached the valley before mentioned. Down-hill travelling is worse for mal de raquette than up-hill, though I didn't think so when we were climbing. At the bottom we found a large river, which we thought was the Athabasca. We followed it up a short distance, and then turned off on our old course, following up a tributary which seemed to come from that direction. We turned off for this reason. If this be the Athabasca, we will, in a few miles, strike the McLeod, and will then know where we are and be able to make St. Anne's easily. If not, it is useless and worse to follow up an unknown river. So we called it “This River. ” Jarvis and I still kept the lead, though the pain we felt at every step cannot be expressed in words.

As we turned a corner suddenly on the 8th, I in front saw two moose in the river about 150 feet from us. As is usual in such cases, the rifle was in the sled behind, and before we could get it the moose were away and lost. These were the first live things we had seen since we crossed the Summit, and our disappointment was very great when we missed killing one of them, we all stand so much in need of meat.

On the 9th we left the creek, which was as crooked as a corkscrew, and struck across country over valleys, hills and deep snow. Our camp that night was on a creek running north, and probably into the last river we saw. Our meat was nearly finished that night, and our stomachs felt empty.

Yesterday we had as usual very heavy walking across these valleys, In the afternoon when we were on a summit, before us we saw an immense valley, about 2 miles wide. You may imagine our delight: here was the end of our troubles and our want of grub in particular. So with renewed vigour we posted down. When we reached the bottom we found a muskeg with a small creek running through the middle of it, down went our spirits again. To day we came on a creek running about east so we followed it, and found the trail blazed as if by white men. To night everything was jolly as can be though our meat is done and our tea so small it can’t be counted. Alec shot a rabbit to-day, quite a feed for 6 men. River here 60 ft. wide, with grassy banks, etc.

But I must sleep; good night.

C. F. H.

Jarvis Pass - Part 12- Jarvis suffering from mal de raquette

                                                         E.W. Jarvis Christmas 1872

Camp No 26,

25th Feby., 1875.

We left camp early this morning and made good time across the lakes. At the summit we stopped, marked a tree, 'Summit between B. Columbia and the N. W. Territory, ” date and names, then with one leg on each side of the line drawn on the snow, we drunk the last of our brandy and gave three cheers. I repeat them. Hurrah! Then we started down the creek along which the snow-shoeing was very bad. At noon we saw a lot of prairie chickens, but having no gun didn't get any. We did 13 1/4 miles to-day and the creek which was about three inches wide at the start is now about 15 feet. A good fall in it all the way. We haven’t "seen the sun rise out of the grass" yet, but we hope to soon. We are as happy and contented to night as if we had had a good dinner, a thing we have almost forgotten. The camp isn't very blue generally, but there are some puns and jokes going to-night.

But now to sleep.

Yours,

C. F. H.
Camp No. 30,

Smoky River, March 1st, 1875.

My dear Edward, —

On the 26th we pushed along as usual over very bad travelling, the snow was hard enough to bear us on snow-shoes, but the dogs would go clear to the bottom and stick fast, so we had to break the crust down every step, which was as you can imagine very hard work. Early that morning we were stopped by a fall, the finest one we had yet seen. I crawled to the edge on my stomach, the ice being thin and looked over. The river lay 250 feet below and the trees, &c., looked very small at that distance. On each side of the river the rock rose nearly perpendicularly and altogether it was a hard looking place to got around.

After satisfying ourselves with the view we turned to go back when one of the men proposed a drink. To get it he took a small axe which at the first blow (a very light one) went straight through. You may bet we got out of that in a hurry. We went back about a mile and took to the side of the mountain which we followed with much trouble till we got a mile below the falls. To get the sleds down to the river required no trouble; to get them down whole took a good deal, as it was as near perpendicular as could be. Finally we took off the dogs, turned the sleds on their sides and got down in that way; you can imagine it was steep when I tell you that one sled having got stuck half way between some trees, I tried to go up to help the driver and couldn't possibly do it, though I did my best. That night we camped late, having done miles and found only one foot of snow in the woods. This will appear strange to you, but the same peculiarity extends along the eastern slope of the mountains for a belt of about 60 miles wide. Beyond the snow gets deeper again.

On the 27th we passed a 20-foot fall, around which we made a portage without much trouble. Just below this fall we struck good travelling hard crust and we did 14 miles that day, passed a branch coming in from south, which Jarvis explored for some distance up.

On the 28th we had a good deal of open water and had to take to land frequently. Another dog dropped to day. Jarvis had to follow behind slowly as he is suffering from mal de raquette. He doesn't say much about it but when he takes to the broken track with a white face and set lips you may guess he is in pain. I have been doing the track breaking since he fell to the rear, and I begin to feel a little pain in my ankles to-day. To-day we did 13 miles and camped early to mend snow-shoes which are very much used up. We have got over the good snow and are now in bad travelling again. Snow hard enough to bear us but which the dogs broke up. If we were certain what river this is it would be more satisfactory. At present when it turns to the east, we think it falls into the Athabasca and our hearts heat high. Then we come to a turn toward the north and we are sure it is Smoky River, and must lead to Peace River and our spirit go to zero at once.

Passed another branch from south to day.

C. F. H.